Bouldering 2025-02-19
It was more empty than last time.
- Seven (all of them?) of the 8th grade. Cleared.
- I also cleared the 7th level, which I cleared last time.
- Tried again for level 7, which didn't work out last time.
- Last time I couldn't even start, but I went as far as being able to touch one hand on the finish line.
- is not considered to have reached the goal because it is not both hands for 3 seconds
Benefits of arm extension
- Start with a shape like 1
- Last time I did this, I was unconsciously in posture 2.
- But I looked at various articles and found descriptions like "extend arms, fold legs".
- So I started in posture 3 and was able to progress further than last time.
- The start is actually pretty slanted.
- If you try to ride with your legs stretched out, you'll end up looking like A.
- This is the center of gravity away from the fulcrum foot, which is supported by the bent arm.
- If you try to take the next hold in this state and let go of one hand, you have to support a large mass with the rest of your hands bent.
- This is impossible.
- Instead, extend your hands and contract your feet to assume the B1 posture.
- From this state, as in B2, extend the right leg and kick the wall to generate force in the left direction.
- You can grab the next hold by extending your leg at the same time your weight is on your left foot (B3)
- It's non-intuitive to crouch down to get the next hold on the top left.
Maybe it's a basic move with a name (it's the start of 7th level).
This wasn't the most difficult assignment so far, but the principle that got my attention was this...
Scene with only one foot hold outside of the right and left hand
Kick to the side without the foot hold.
- This is called smearing.
Shift the center of gravity to the foot hold by
- I hadn't realized that you should kick higher than the foot hold.
Raise your upper body by kicking down that foot hold.
Pull at the shoulder with the arm extended.
- Bending my arms is hard on my biceps.
https://youtu.be/2jyrwgMSg1I?si=MuitP5fc9_cxRBLi Don't lift your feet too high.
https://youtu.be/mj-xLTGLDuc?si=vl2mbm0zzg9eLNOs Move your feet after every move Lift your legs too high and your hips will fall off.
- Raise to a position where you can get the next hold.
- If you don't know, raise it to the knee position.
- Get on the top leg at different heights on the left and right.
- Same as stairs stretch one's arms
- To avoid bending your hands when lifting your feet, pull your hips back.
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